Libation Conversation – Rediscovering the Classics

Classic cocktails have become classics for one very compelling reason. When made properly, they’re delicious. However, though they are widely known (or perhaps because they are), the average cocktail consumer is subjected to a broad continuum of ‘interpretations’ of these classics, many of which fail to demonstrate the true beauty of the actual cocktails upon which the interpretations are based. This failure stems chiefly (but not exclusively) from the common practice of substituting pre-made cocktail mixes for the actual ingredients and techniques called for in the original recipes. While this is a somewhat understandable concession to efficiency in most cases, it is nonetheless regrettable. High fructose corn syrup, coloring agents, and such culinary gems as sodium metabisulfite have no place in a truly great cocktail.

One sure way to afford these cocktails all their rightful glory is to make them yourself according to the original (or as close to it as can be ascertained) recipes. Let’s take a look at the recipes behind a few popular classics.

The Mojito (recipe from The Craft of the Cocktail – Dale DeGroff)

2 tender sprigs of fresh mint

1 ounce Simple Syrup (1 part sugar, 1 part water, shaken together until the sugar dissolves)

¾ ounce fresh-squeezed lime juice

1 ½ ounces light rum

2 dashes Angostura bitters (optional)

Soda water

Muddle one mint sprig with the simple syrup and the lime juice in the bottom of the mixing-glass half of a Boston shaker. Add the rum and bitters, and shake with ice. Strain over cracked ice into a highball glass. Top with soda and the remaining sprig of mint.

LC Notes:

-Creating a balanced Mojito can be deceptively challenging. Fresh mint and lime juice both possess prominent, distinctive flavor profiles. The sweetness of the simple syrup is required in order for the other elements to coexist peacefully, but it can be easily overdone. The bitters can add a welcome depth and complexity to the drink, but it must be applied with prudent restraint. And of course, the better the rum, the better the cocktail.

-There is no need to pulverize the mint during the muddling process. A firm bruising of the leaves is sufficient to extract the essential oils from the mint leaves.

The Margarita (recipe from Tommy’s Mexican Restaurant, San Francisco)

2 ounces 100% blue agave tequila

1 ounce fresh-squeezed lime juice

1 ounce agave syrup

Combine the ingredients in a shaker with ice. Shake well and strain into a chilled cocktail glass or over ice in a rocks glass. Salting the rim of the glass is optional.

LC Notes

-As it is the most popular cocktail in America, there are countless opinions regarding the construction of the perfect Margarita. Since I’m writing this piece, here’s mine; Tommy’s Mexican Restaurant in San Francisco houses a world-class tequila bar and is widely considered to serve one of America’s best margaritas. I’ve used this recipe many times with consistently terrific results. It is the essence of simplicity, and lets the rich complexity of 100% blue agave tequila shine through. Agave syrup is available at organic food stores and is naturally lower in carbs than sugar. Its flavor profile marries perfectly with 100% blue agave tequila (both are derived from the same part of the plant) and the combination is perfectly complemented by fresh lime juice.

-I tend to favor the use of reposado tequila over blanco in this recipe, but whichever suits your tastes is the correct choice for you. If the mood strikes, I may add a touch of Grand Marnier to my Margarita for added depth and richness.

-I prefer to enjoy this cocktail with an unsalted rim, as the intensity of coarse salt buries the delicate freshness of the cocktail on my palate, but again that’s just me. Experiment with both. If you’re making Margaritas for a group, try salting half the rim, thus leaving the decision in the hands of your guests. Do your best to apply the salt only to the outside rim of the glass. This will keep salt from falling into the cocktail, thereby altering its flavor balance. I also like to garnish my Margaritas by topping them with a pinch of fresh grated lime zest delivered via a Microplane.

The Martini (recipe from The Joy of Mixology – Gary Regan)

2 ½ ounces Gin or Vodka

½ ounce Dry Vermouth

1 pitted olive or lemon twist, for garnish

Add ingredients to an ice-filled mixing glass. Stir for 30 seconds. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Add garnish.

LC Notes

-Many liberties have been taken regarding the use of the term ‘martini’. Nearly all the drinks served in these glasses are technically just ‘cocktails’, except of course an actual Martini. Yet a great many of these concoctions have had the word ‘martini’, or the inescapable ‘(fill in the blank)-tini’, incorporated into their names. At the end of the day, it’s your booze and your glass. Call it whatever makes you happy. The purpose of this discourse, however, is to attempt to shed light on the true Martini. The Martini is a descendent of the Martinez cocktail, which evolved from the Manhattan. Early print versions of the Martinez (which was made with sweet vermouth) described it as a Manhattan with gin instead of whiskey. Dry Martinis first began to appear in the early 1900s. Vodka wasn’t a prominent force in the American cocktail culture until the mid-20^th Century, and the idea of shaking a Martini and adding vodka to the mix can be attributed, of course, to James Bond.

-In my own humble opinion, a Martini is made with 4 to 5 parts gin to 1 part dry vermouth, it is stirred thoroughly (not shaken) and served up in a chilled cocktail glass (a.k.a. ‘martini glass’), and it is garnished with a single pitted olive. Gins vary fairly widely in flavor. Some are sweeter than others, some display prominent citrus notes, and some are more noticeably juniper-influenced, offering distinct, cooling ‘pine-y’ notes. Experiment with several gins to find your preferred flavor profile. Or use vodka, and shake your Martini to pieces if you like. After all, it’s your drink.

Omaha Press Club Excellence in Journalism Awards

My ‘Libation Conversation’ column for Food & Spirits Magazine took 2^nd place in the Best Magazine Column division at the recent Omaha Press Club ‘Excellence in Journalism’ awards. The magazine as a whole won seven awards in all. Details are below.


Food & Spirits Magazine Releases Scratch ‘N Sniff Sixth Issue, Wins Seven Awards

Food and Spirits Magazine, ‘The Omaha Metro’s Best Guide for Food, Dining, Spirits and Wine’, provides thousands of readers in the metro area with rich, engrossing and informative articles on the food and dining scene in Omaha.

Since 2007, FSM has been recognized by local industry professionals for the publication’s quality of both editorial and design, winning numerous awards in the past year alone.

This past June, FSM added to its already impressive awards list. During the Omaha Press Club’s ‘Excellence in Journalism’ Awards Competition, held June 6th and judged by the Denver Press Club, FSM was granted seven of ten possible awards for magazines, including first and second place finishes in the categories of ‘Best Magazine Column’ and ‘Best Magazine Feature Story’. FSM also finished first in ‘Best Magazine Layout’ and ‘Best Blog’ while taking second place in ‘Best Magazine Cover’.

Now, with the recent release of their sixth issue, Food and Spirits Magazine continues to raise the bar, presenting a magazine that smells as good as it looks.

That’s right: scratch or rub the cover of their latest issue to fill your nose with the scent of buttered popcorn. Such a feature has arguably never been done by other local publications and is sure to bring a smile to your face.

“Before this magazine came out, we had no real idea what it (using scented ink) would turn out like but we couldn’t resist... and we couldn’t be more pleased with the results,” says Erik Totten, owner and publisher of Food & Spirits Magazine.

This latest issue can be found free of charge at well-known venues throughout the Metro area from now until early August. You can also purchase a copy or subscription online. Those who are hungry for more can visit http://www.fsmomaha.com/ for additional content, including editorial from past issues and a chance to participate in their active, award-winning blog. You can reach Erik Totten directly by calling 402-203-6145.

Individual ‘Excellence in Journalism’ Food & Spirits Magazine Award winners:
Best Magazine Feature Story – 1st Bill McKenzie, 2nd Brian O’Malley

Best Magazine Column – 1st John Fischer, 2nd Dan Crowell

Best Magazine Layout – 1st Food & Spirits Magazine (designed by Chris Kolberg, Matt Goddard)

Best Blog – 1st Food & Spirits Magazine

Best Magazine Cover – 2nd Food & Spirits Magazine (photo by David Ahlquist and designed by Chris Kolberg and Matt Goddard

Bar Chat

LIV Lounge, located at 2279 S 67^th St in Aksarben Village, is Omaha’s new ‘classic cocktails’ lounge. On behalf of Food & Spirits Magazine (as well as for my own burning curiosity), I sat down recently with proprietor Sam Hohman to find out what LIV Lounge is all about. The following is a summary of that conversation.

F&S: Describe the concept behind Liv Lounge.

LIV: Back to the Basics. Good drinks, excellent service and a home away from home.

F&S: What is your philosophy in terms of the overall bar & cocktail profile?

LIV: Meet and exceed people’s expectations. Of course we’d love people to try classic cocktails or at least a new cocktail based on classic principals but at the end of the day if someone really wants blue vodka with a chemically treated liquor then that is their prerogative.

F&S: What is your goal with the bar?

LIV: Create a long lasting establishment that stands the test of time by being neither trendy nor too literal in our approach.

F&S: What is your background?

LIV: JD. MBA, Former HR executive, currently lead a non-profit organization. My husband is a business and real estate atty. We both put ourselves through college working in the service industry

F&S: From where do you draw inspiration?

LIV: Periodicals and experiences – we’re always game as long as it’s legal and leaves our limbs in tact.

F&S: Name some challenges associated with your approach.

LIV: Good drinks take time to make. We don’t have a sour button on the gun.

F&S: Aksarben Village is constantly evolving. What do you think it will be like in a year? How does your approach at Liv take this evolution into consideration?

LIV: Aksarben is going to continue adding new elements over the next 5-10 years. This is exciting. Each new addition brings a new set to the community and therefore a new group of people to serve. We don’t see ourselves changing from our core principles. Listening to what people want helps us to seamlessly greet each new influx of people.

F&S: Describe your customer base. Who is coming to Liv?

LIV: All types and that has been the most fun. Old ladies, business people, hipsters, Junior Leaguers, the gay community, bikers, small town visitors - we’ve seen it all in a very short amount of time. The best part is they all keep coming back.

F&S: Describe the response you’ve received from customers.

LIV: Tremendous. We continue to receive enormous compliments from first time visitors as well as regulars. #1 compliment is on the friendly staff, #2 on the décor, #3 on the cleanliness which we absolutely won’t compromise on.

F&S: How do you approach bar staff training? What about floor staff?

LIV: All staff members receive the same training. We want our doormen to know as much about scotch as our bartenders. We do a lot of training. In the month that we have been open our staff has all had over 10 hours of training not including the four soft openings. Knowledge equals power. If our staff is knowledgeable then they have the power to sell.

F&S: How do you approach product consistency and quality control?

LIV: It’s a constant battle, especially when we are busy. But because of the training our staff receives, they understand the importance of this element. As managers we are constantly working to give the staff what they need so that quality doesn’t fall to efficiency or vice versa. Also, we listen to our clients. They are only too happy to tell us if a drink isn’t right. If we know it’s right, we take the time to educate them but always mindful of pleasing them. If, we didn’t do it right, we fully own up to it and correct the situation.

F&S: What do you have in the works for the near future?

LIV: We will be expanding our menu with Wohlners (Grocery Store, next door). We are looking forward to the growth of the area from events held at Stinson Park and we are expanding the requests for parties to catering off site.

F&S; Are you using social networking sites to promote Liv? If so, which sites do you use and how do you use them?

LIV: Currently we have a website and a Facebook page and MySpace page. We will be entering the world of Twitter soon. We have a strong following on Facebook. People really look forward to our posts.

F&S: What’s your favorite drink / liqueur / spirit?

LIV: It’s ever changing. Right now I’m really into sidecars. They are so delicious without being sweet. My husband pretty much sticks with draft beers. I’m also on a personal mission to get people to understand gin, its complexities, variances and use in cocktails. It’s frustrating though because we simply can’t get the wide variety of gins that exist in the market to Omaha.

F&S: What’s the most recent product or development that has inspired you?

LIV: At the bar we are doing a lot with St-Germain. If we can get people to try it, they are hooked. We have created a number of amazing cocktails with it.

F&S: What do you drink when you go out?

LIV: Unfortunately, we keep it simple because we have had some pretty bad experiences.

F&S: Is there a cocktail / product / category you wish every customer would try?

LIV: See comments under gin.

F&S: What’s your best-selling cocktail?

LIV: Our signature LIV Frei made with St-Germain and the Manhattan.

F&S: Do you use a cocktail list? Does the content change regularly?

LIV: We currently have 108 drinks on our cocktail menu. We don’t foresee changing it yet but of course it will continue to evolve. And just wait until we can actually get our hands on a bottle of Chartreuse or Maraschino Liqueur

F&S: What would you like to tell the folks at home?

LIV: Stick to your guns. If we had a nickel for every piece of advice we got along the way that would have bastardized our vision, we’d actually be making money but not as a bar. Create a vision. Believe in yourself. Don’t waiver. And most importantly, continue to listen to that advice even if you don’t follow it. Because if you are smart, it will either confirm your instincts or let you know when the vision isn’t working.

Twitter

You may find info on Omaha spirits events on my Twitter posts
http://twitter.com/libationassoc

Bar Chat - Dundee Dell, Omaha, NE

Bar Chat - Dundee Dell

The Dundee Dell, a true Omaha institution, is celebrating its 75th anniversary this year. I sat down recently with Monique Huston, general manager of The Dell, for a peek behind the curtain of this legendary pub.

Describe the restaurant. What is its history?

We’ve been around since 1934. Pat (Gobel) is just the 4th owner of The Dell in the 75 years it’s been around. We’ve basically done a lot of the same things. We’ve done the same Fish & Chips. The recipe hasn’t changed. The batter is the thing that people always ask us for the recipe for, and that’s the thing we’re not going to let go. We always use North Atlantic Cod. That’s what we’ve always done. We’re the only restaurant in the United States that continues to use North Atlantic Cod because we signed a contract two years ago for ten years out, but other than that it’s all been fished out. So most other places that do fish and chips use Haddock or other white fish, but that’s just not what we do. We will always find a way to continue to do what we’ve been doing.

The Dell has the largest single-malt Scotch whisky list of any bar in the world. How did the Scotch thing get started?

All I know is that when I started here in 2000, we had 60 scotches and now we have 720 scotches. Now, that’s my baby. That’s what I took on. Pat loves it and he’s very supportive of everything that I do. My mother is an antique dealer, so if I find something unique, if I know something is rare, if I know that something is really special, I want it. I want to have it and I want to be able to expose other people to it. That’s what happened with the scotch collection. It’s weird. We’re better known nationally than we are locally as the best whisky bar in the country. I can go to Chicago and meet people who know The Dell better than someone in west Omaha knows The Dell. We’ve had people make pilgrimages from Ireland just to try a particular Scotch that we have. Many people in Omaha don’t really know or they just don’t believe it.

What is your philosophy in terms of the overall bar & cocktail profile?

If there’s a new vodka or if there’s a new flavored rum that comes out, we’ll take one, try it out on some people, have it in a tasting and figure out if we like it and want to continue to stock it. But we’re not going to serve some random kind of schnapps or these Pucker things or blah, blah, blah. We’re not doing any of that. We’re not going to compromise quality to make a sale. We don’t serve malt beverages either. Yeah, Smirnoff Ice might taste great, but we’ve got trained bartenders here with years of experience behind them. Why don’t you let them do their job? Tell them what you want something to taste like and they’ll create something based on what you like. Fresh juices and good ingredients and some things you’ve never heard of. You can go anywhere and get a Bud Light, but you’re going to come here and get something that’s got some thought behind it, some energy behind it and some passion behind it. We like to try to be a center for people to come and be educated on good cocktails, old-school cocktails. People call me all the time and they’re like, “What’s in a Gimlet?” And I think, “Really?” We actually still serve those all the time. We have Manhattans and Sidecars go out across the bar all the time. I understand those things are having a bit of a renaissance, but Pat is very old-school. He remembers the time when a Martini was a Martini and had two ingredients; either vodka or gin and vermouth. That’s a Martini. A Cosmo is not a Martini just because it’s in a Martini glass. A lot of people just don’t get that.

How do you approach staffing?

Pat is wonderful at recognizing, maintaining and growing talented people throughout the staff. We have no turnover. We’ve had no kitchen turnover in the last 10 months. Not a dishwasher, no one. We’ve had no wait staff turnover in over a year. You come in here and you know the wait staff every time you come in. Pat’s very generous, but what he really does is that he allows input from everyone. If a chef has a great idea for a tasting, done! We’re going to make it happen. If a dishwasher has a great idea for a new appetizer, done! He’s willing to sit down and listen to everyone. Give them a lot of space. Give them wings. I always say it’s definitely a sign of how happy people are where they work when they’re all sitting at the bar after they get off, just hanging out. That’s very common. To see people come in on their off days and eat and drink and bring their families in, and long after they’ve left here, to come in and still feel very welcome.

Describe the response you’ve received from customers.

In this economy, people are going to stay at home because they don’t want to spend a bunch of money. When you come out, come out and drink a good cocktail, come out to a tasting and try 8 different rums. Find out what you really like and really get excited about it. We’re seeing a lot of that here. We’ve been really blessed by an amazing amount of support. Local people, people who want to support neighborhoods, people who want to support independent businesses. Here in Omaha we’re very fortunate that people consciously will do that. We live in a city where a Chili’s and a Macaroni Grill closed. That just doesn’t happen. And independents are thriving. Everywhere I go, I just feel so grateful. I don’t like to go to another town and have somebody say to me that their neighborhood bar is an Applebee’s. Really? Because that’s how they bill themselves. They told you that. Did you decide that? Do you know these people? You can’t just call yourself that. You have to develop that kind of reputation, and it’s really worked for us. We’re very blessed.

Libation Conversation – Aviation Cocktail

The Aviation Cocktail. The name possesses many of the qualities I love in a good cocktail moniker. It says everything and nothing at the same time. It provides intrigue and fuel for the imagination. It conjures images in the head of goggles, silk scarves and wing walking. It creates its own set of expectations that can’t be confirmed or refuted until one ventures out of one’s comfort zone and into the vast unknown. Looking further into the cocktail itself, more mystery and intrigue awaits. What is the actual recipe? What are its origins? What the heck is Crème Yvette?

While it may not be a staple on cocktail menus locally, The Aviation has been used very effectively in other parts of the country to lure cocktail consumers into the realm of “classic cocktails”, those cocktails whose origins can be traced to a period from the first appearance of the “cocktail” in 1806 to the beginning of Prohibition in 1920. The Aviation qualifies, but it is a relatively late entrant into the classic cocktail field, having first seen the light of day in Hugo Ensslin’s 1916 publication, Recipes For Mixed Drinks.

As is typical with classic cocktails, the original Aviation evolved into a number of differing Aviation recipes as well as other descendant cocktails including the Blue Moon. Ensslin’s original recipe called for Gin, Maraschino Liqueur, Crème Yvette and lemon juice. As we’ve done in previous columns, let’s look at the elements of this wonderful cocktail, beginning as many worthwhile endeavors begin, with Gin.

GIN: Even a cursory look at the universe of classic cocktails reveals that Gin is found at the heart of a significant number of these revered old drinks. Its complexity and depth of character form the perfect backdrop for a wide array of complementary flavor additions. But Gin is hardly a homogenous category of spirits. Significant differences exist between one Gin and another, and an understanding of these differences (and of your tastes and preferences) is critical when deciding which Gin is going to grace your next classic cocktail adventure. All Gins are influenced to some degree by the Juniper berry, which is used to flavor the spirit and lends Gin its distinctive “pineyness”. Some Gins are relatively sweet with more pronounced citrus and subtler Juniper notes, while others are drier with a pronounced Juniper presence and hints of Coriander. Some Dutch-style Genevers (Gin’s earliest form) have an intriguing maltiness to them. Finding a Gin with a flavor profile that lines up with one’s personal tastes & preferences can be a time-consuming process, but in the end your enjoyment of Gin cocktails will be greatly enhanced. And it’s a lot more fun than determining your favorite brand of dental floss.

MARASCHINO LIQUEUR: If you’ve read previous Libation Conversation columns, you are probably at least familiar with Maraschino Liqueur, even if you have not had the pleasure of tasting it for yourself. If this is your first Libation Conversation, allow me to welcome you and to shed a little light on Maraschino Liqueur. This liqueur bears no resemblance to the neon goo that bar cherries float in. Invented by Girolamo Luxardo in 1821 and still produced today according to his original formula, Maraschino liqueur is distilled from Marasca cherries and aged in Ash vats. Maraschino liqueur possesses fascinating depth and a unique, delicate floral note. It is somewhat difficult to come by but well worth the search. It is also the critical ingredient in the original Corpse Reviver, which was also examined in a previous Conversation.

CRÈME YVETTE: This element of the original Aviation has the highest potential to confound. Crème Yvette was a proprietary version (produced by Charles Jacquin et Cie until being discontinued in the 1960s) of Crème de Violette. Crème de Violette is a liqueur whose flavor and color are derived from a maceration of violets in un-aged grape brandy. Crème de Violette is also somewhat difficult to find, but it too is well worth the search. Rumor has it that Jacquin may be reviving Crème Yvette liqueur, so stay tuned. It has been suggested that Marie Brizard Parfait d’Amour, yet another elusive-but-worthy-of-search liqueur, can be substituted for Crème de Violette. While this certainly violates no laws or international treaties with which I am familiar, the two products are not interchangeable from a flavor perspective.

LEMON JUICE: Use the real thing. Classic cocktails are no place for substitutes, especially when it comes to fruit juices. Cocktail mixes, lime juice cordials, and “juices” that hide out in plastic replicas of actual fruits are for the most part, loaded with artificial ingredients and sweeteners that can guide your cocktail to a dark and foreboding place. Perhaps even more offensive is the idea that through the use of cocktail mixes you, the eventual consumer of your cocktail creations, have been robbed of the ability to determine for yourself the balance between the sweet and acidic elements of your carefully crafted libation. Insufferable!

THE COCKTAIL: As was mentioned, there are a number of recipes out there for the Aviation Cocktail. While most seem to agree at least on the elements of Gin, Maraschino Liqueur and fresh lemon juice, the proportions of each are apparently of some dispute. The five cocktail recipe books I checked each had a slightly different recipe. In fact, only two of them even mention Crème de Violette. How could this critical ingredient become such an afterthought? It turns out that one of the most revered publications in the history of cocktails, The Savoy Cocktail Book (1930), published a recipe for the Aviation that omitted the Crème de Violette. For many years, this was taken to be the original recipe, and it wasn’t until the original was discovered some years later that Crème de Violette was once again afforded its place in the cocktail. The fact that Crème de Violette is still difficult to find leads to its being regularly slighted in today’s Aviation recipes. Nevertheless, the enjoyment of a true Aviation is impossible without it. After all, the name Aviation itself refers to the sky-blue tint that Crème de Violette gives the drink.

THE RECIPE:

Aviation Cocktail (From DrinkBoy Robert Hess)

2 oz Gin
1/2 oz lemon juice
1/2 oz Luxardo Maraschino Liqueur
1/4 oz Crème de Violette
Combine all ingredients in an ice-filled shaker
Shake & Strain into a chilled cocktail glass


Aviation Cocktail (The Original - From Hugo Ensslin’s Recipes For Mixed Drinks, 1916)

1/3 Lemon Juice
2/3 El Bart Gin
2 dashes Maraschino
2 dashes Creme de Violette
Shake well in a mixing glass with cracked ice, strain and serve

Libation Conversation - Old Fashioned

It seems in many cases that the simpler a drink appears to be at first glance, the more complicated it actually is when examined more fully. Consider the Old-Fashioned; bitters, cherry, orange slice, sugar cube, bourbon, ice. Seems simple enough, but there’s significantly more to this grand potation than meets the eye.

To fully appreciate this drink, its construction, its cultural significance and the controversy it seems to generate, one must look first at its history. The history of the Old-Fashioned is connected to the origins of the cocktail itself. In fact, one of the earliest definitions of the word ‘cocktail’ committed to print appears to describe fairly closely the original Old-Fashioned. The May 13, 1806 edition of the Hudson, NY periodical, The Balance and Columbian Repository, in response to a reader’s inquiry, defines the cocktail in this way:

“Cock tail, then, is a stimulating liquor, composed of spirits of any kind, sugar, water and bitters it is vulgarly called a bittered sling, and is supposed to be an excellent electioneering potion inasmuch as it renders the heart stout and bold, at the same time it fuddles the head.”

Incidentally, the ‘electioneering’ reference in the above quote refers to the fairly common practice among politicians of the day of plying voters with alcohol throughout their campaigns, specifically on Election Day, which eventually led to widely administered restrictions regarding Election Day alcohol sales, still on the books today in some states and municipalities.

Having been somewhat of a known quantity since the early 1800s, it comes as little surprise that the blueprint for the Old-Fashioned was considered old-fashioned by the time it was first listed as the Old-Fashioned Whiskey Cocktail in George Kappeler’s 1895 book, Modern American Drinks. An unnamed bartender at the Pendennis Club, a private club still in operation in Louisville, Kentucky, is widely credited with having created the drink in the first place.

This brings us to our first controversy-generating point – The Fruit. There is no orange or cherry (muddled or otherwise) mentioned in the recipe for the original Old-Fashioned.

Old-Fashioned Whiskey Cocktail (circa 1895)
Dissolve a small lump of sugar with a little water in a whiskey-glass*; add two dashes Angostura bitters, a small piece ice, a piece lemon-peel, one jigger whiskey. Mix with small bar-spoon and serve, leaving spoon in glass
*the short, thick-bottomed glass traditionally used for this drink came to be known as an
Old-Fashioned glass, long before it was called a ‘rocks’ glass.

Some slight recipe tweaks appeared in time, including the addition of Curacao (mercifully, not the blue stuff), orange bitters, maraschino liqueur, even Absinthe, but the orange slice didn’t appear as an ingredient in an Old-Fashioned until the publication of Harry Craddock’s Savoy Cocktail Book in 1930, and then only as a garnish (not muddled). NOTE: Mixology guru Dale DeGroff points out in The Craft of the Cocktail that the Whiskey Cobbler (circa 1862), a precursor to the Old-Fashioned, was shaken with two pieces of orange in the mixing glass. The cherry didn’t make an appearance until the publication of Julien Proskauer’s What’ll You Have? in 1933, where it was listed as an ingredient in the cocktail along with the orange slice (still not muddled). The use of a lemon twist as a garnish persists in this recipe.

Many (but not all) cocktail historians assert that the addition of fruits like orange and cherry into the Old-Fashioned were affectations of Prohibition. During Prohibition, the quantity of spirits available (albeit, by less-than-legal means) to the drinking public remained plentiful but the relative quality level suffered mightily, prompting the addition of a dizzying array of cocktail ingredients whose purpose was to mask the inferior quality of the spirits. Some Old-Fashioned purists view the addition of fruits beyond the lemon twist garnish as ‘frivolous window-dressing’, as Crosby Gaige, president of the New York Wine & Food Society, noted in 1945.

As to the fruit and muddling question in general, opinions and tastes vary. The Joy of Mixology author Gary Regan sums it up in this way: “The fruit question is a serious one, and although many people in the twenty-first century expect a small fruit salad to be muddled into their drink, a good bartender will always ask before proceeding.” It should be noted that Regan himself prefers the ‘fruit salad’ treatment of an Old-Fashioned to the historically accurate one, as does the aforementioned DeGroff.

Controversy-generating point #2 – Soda, Water, or none of the above. In early Old-Fashioned recipes, a small amount of water was called for only as a means to dissolve the sugar, which dissolves much less readily in alcohol. NOTE: the substitution of simple syrup for the sugar and water in an Old-Fashioned is an effective way to achieve the desired cocktail flavor profile while eliminating the possibility of grittiness from un-dissolved sugar. Some later recipes called for an increased amount of water or the addition of soda water, but these additions are viewed by many Old-Fashioned aficionados as detrimental to the cocktail. As cocktail expert Robert Hess puts it, “Such a sin should be viewed in the same light as ordering a finely cooked steak in a classy restaurant, and then smothering it with ketchup.”

As with all cocktails, there are no absolutes regarding the preparation of an Old-Fashioned. Research and experimentation will in time lead you to the perfect recipe for your palate. In that light, I leave you with the following Old-Fashioned recipe bestowed generously upon me by a member of a prominent small-batch bourbon producing family:

Old-Fashioned (family recipe)
Ingredients:
1.5 to 2oz Small-batch bourbon
1-2 cubes Sugar in the Raw
2 dashes each Orange Bitters (ex. Stirrings Blood Orange Bitters) & Angostura Bitters
½ of an Orange slice (1/4” thick)
Section of Orange zest

Gear needed:
-A good rocks glass with a wide bottom
-A bar spoon with a disc end
-Several large solid ice cubes
-Cocktail napkin

Procedure:
Place the orange slice in the bottom of the rocks glass. Place the cube(s) of Sugar in the Raw on a cocktail napkin and apply 2 dashes of each variety of bitters to the sugar. The cocktail napkin is there to absorb any excess bitters. Add bitters-soaked sugar cubes to the glass and muddle together with only the pulp of the orange. Avoid the pith as it contains bitter elements. Muddling with the disc-end of the bar spoon instead of a traditional muddler makes this step easier. Add one large solid ice cube to the glass along with half of the bourbon. Stir for 30 seconds. Add one more ice cube and the rest of the bourbon. Stir briefly. Add the rest of the ice. Cut a section of fresh orange peel with as little pith as possible, rim the glass with it and drop it into the drink. Enjoy!